All posts by Serial Nomad

Writer & Wanderer

Adventure HQ

It’s been so enjoyable to see many of the old names pop up recently in my notifications to share the excitement about my new journey to Spain. Ken you make me laugh, I promise to make it fun for you too!

I was searching for a good book to relax with in my week of nothing before the trail begins, and serendipitously between the few books my friend keeps on his shelf, I pulled out a book called ‘The Pilgrimage’ by Paulo Coelho. I looked at the title, thought ‘this is fitting’, turned the book around to read the back and raised my voice a few decibels when I discovered the
book was about the El Camino de Santiago. Not exactly the same trail, as I’m taking the northern route as opposed to the route starting from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, but it hasn’t taken long for trail magic to enter my world again.

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Today I’m heading to ‘Adventure HQ’ in the hope to supplement my current gear with a few additional bits and pieces I either wore out on the trail (hiking poles), or left in Vancouver thinking I’d be returning before my next hike. Unfortunately some of my gear that is on the other side of the world in North America are my favourite pieces of clothing and gear: my Marmot wind breaker, my MSR water bladder, my Arcteryx puffy jacket and my tiny little pocket knife for fending off mountain lions and cutting moleskin!

These are the items on today’s shopping list:
– suitcase (to leave my current life in Dubai)
– socks
– hiking poles
– sleeping mat
– smart wool top
– arnica cream
– rain jacket
– rain pants
– pocket knife
– water bladder
– mini bike light for tent
– Velcro for gaiters
– cheap sunglasses
– cheap warm gloves
– little hook on sunscreen
– wipes
– protector for maps
– big safety pin
– leukotape
– garbage liner bag
– lip balm

When I arrive in Spain I’m hoping to purchase a local SIM card for my phone and some snack food before I start the hike. I also need to plan how to get to the start point of the trail in Irun from San Sebastián airport and a possible place to stay on night zero. Any ideas?

In the cab on the way to Time Square we got caught in a traffic jam long enough for the driver to get out his phone and start watching a movie. When he tired of this he sat and counted all his money, took a phone call, then returned his eyes to the road and continued driving. We were stopped no more than 5 minutes. Multitasking at its finest!

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I was full of excitement as we pulled up to Adventure HQ, thinking that the sheer size of the store would mean they’d have at least something close to what I was looking for. There is a significant difference in hiking gear in the US compared to the Middle East, and as I should have guest the store seemed more about expensive brands than practical gear. The only smart wool items were long sleeve base layers, and the only foam sleeping pad was about as thin as my Therm-a-rest Z Lite after 6 months on the PCT. The man in the store told me the sleeping pad in my hand was for ‘one time use only’. This made me laugh. He then showed me the Neo Air. I looked at the price tag, rolled my eyes and grabbed the foam mat.

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Out of all the items on my list I walked out of the store with the four most important: A Marmot rain jacket, Black Diamond Hiking poles (Z-fold but they didn’t have the carbon fiber ones I love), the sleeping pad and a bike light for my tent. My new mission will be to find a store in Dubai that sells anything ‘cheap’. Will have to tackle that one tomorrow.

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What’s next?

I’m in the middle of packing my suitcase ready to leave Abu Dhabi for Dubai tomorrow afternoon. There was never really a question in my mind about what I was going to do after this job, more a question of would something pop up preventing me from doing it?

Since completing the PCT the draw towards walking another trail has been constant. I find myself reminiscing more and more about these moments. I’m like a broken record repeating the same stories over and over again. Lucky for me I have a different audience a lot of the time, allowing me to become carried away in the storytelling of a time which actually feels more like fiction than fact to me now.

Without time to plan suitably for another endeavour like the PCT, I’ve decided to venture to a different part of the world to wander through a country, culture and environment that again is quite foreign to me.

After reviewing the video above I realised my skills with the camera are becoming even worse than they used to be when I turn the phone around and film either the roof or the sky instead of what’s in front of me! Further training is required!

The Camino de Santiago or Way of St. James is a network of pilgrimage routes throughout France, Spain and Portugal that lead to the shrine of the apostle St. James the Great in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in Northwest Spain. I’m planning to walk the Camino del Norte which hugs the northern coast of Spain for the most part before joining with the more popular Camino Frances for the last leg of the trail.

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The total trip is 823km over approximately 32 days. This is what I’ve captured during my 15 minutes of research. Over the next 7 days I hope to know a little more before I step foot off the plane in San Sebastián.

Life begins again

When I called for room service last night the man on the end of the phone asked me where I’d been. I realised two things: 1. I haven’t eaten at ‘home’ in my hotel room for the last month and 2. The month prior to that all I ate was room service. When I walked into my room before midnight for the first time in the last two weeks, I face planted on my bed and fell asleep. My phone was still in my hand when a text message woke me and encouraged me to order food, watch an episode of Homeland, take a bath and then sleep again. These three things have become such luxuries to me over the last month I’m really looking back and wondering if it was all worth it.

What I enjoy about working hard is the contrast it provides me with when the job is done. I have always been somewhat all or nothing, and in terms of work this is especially fitting. I still have reports to write and reconciliation to complete, but my focus has now moved to life beyond work. After spending two months in a large white tent on top of a sand pit, all I want to do is be outdoors. My only thoughts during the last 8 weeks have been work and flashbacks from the Pacific Crest Trail. It’s really weird the memories that flash back all of a sudden. A campsite, a lake, a view. Small inconsequential moments on the trail are what I miss the most. Quiet peaceful solitude and simplicity. Perspective. I think I lost some of that over these last two months.

Someone asked me recently if they should hike the PCT, if it was worthwhile and a life changing experience for me. In my opinion you should do whatever motivates you if you have the means to do so. Why wait? I read something my friend Leigh wrote recently about the notion of retirement. It mirrored my sentiments entirely: http://remoteleigh.wordpress.com/2014/03/02/by-living-more-i-needed-less/

So what’s next? Right now I’m on my way to Oman so I can extend my visa to the UAE for another 30 days. The driver and I are having some trouble finding the correct border to cross. These things are never simple. In fact to renew my visa my driver needs to drop me at the border, I then walk through the pedestrian access point to get an exit stamp, then take a cab 35 kilometres to the passport office in Oman, get another stamp, a cab back to the UAE border, and then an entry stamp back in. Sure, easy enough.

Before divulging my next adventure I thought I’d complete my recent experience here with a few pictures from the event. I’m on the home stretch now and almost ready to take my next leap of faith to another part of this big wide world!

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Half way through

I’m thoroughly looking forward to getting my life back mid next month and having time to put pen to paper. But I have to say 5 days into the festival I’m starting to feel like all the hard work is starting to pay off. Here’s a preview of the first fruitful days…

The life of an expat

The life of an expat always sounded glamorous but somewhat artificial to me. Living in a high rise or hotel, expensive company dinners, weekends on the beach, chauffeurs, live in nannies, swimming pools, glitz.

Tonight while I walked along the corniche I came to the realisation that I am in fact an ‘expat’, a word I associate with business men who wear expensive suits or women who sunbathe while the nanny nurses the kids.

Everyone in the working world in Abu Dhabi is an expat. I ran into a woman in the lift the other morning who asked if I was American because she heard me speaking English. She seemed desperate for contact with someone from a familiar land telling me how weird this place seems to her. In some ways I agree, but on the other hand this place feels just as much home right now as anywhere else on the planet.

Tonight was my second evening stroll along the Corniche. Walking is my sole activity outside of work. It brings me such joy to simply be outdoors amongst the life of the city. It also gives me time to think outside of my ever growing task list and refocus on why I’m actually here and what I want to be doing.

When I reached the beach I sat and reflected on this fascinating expat lifestyle I’m currently living. It certainly ain’t champagne breakfasts and lazy days on the sand…

Head above water

For the past couple of weeks I’ve been swimming in the world of work and desperately trying to tread water while the waves of deadlines and requests have been hitting me from all sides.

I had a few breakthroughs today, and although the tide seems to keep dragging me back, I know eventually I’ll reach a point where I hit the shore again.

This morning I spoke to my four year old nephew to wish him happy birthday, and other than a recent five minute conversation with my dad for his birthday, I’ve been completely cut off from society outside of the Fort walls where the festival I’m working on will take place in just under 4 weeks! Frightening!

As I stared at my computer screen just before 10pm this evening I decided it was time to resurface and give a brief update on where I currently stand. I’m sure a few of you might have thought I’d vanished into the ether, but I’m still alive and kicking, keeping myself afloat and my head above water.

The meaning of life

This is the one question Google doesn’t have a decent answer for. I know this because I Googled it a few years back only to discover numerous listings on Monty Python’s film from the 80’s. Is this the most accurate source we have for spiritual guidance concerning this topic? For some reason while sitting in a lonely cafe sipping coffee and eating rhubarb pie I once again I contemplated this quandary. Strangely enough I seemed to stumble across the answer. It actually came from a parallel I was drawing with the trail. Enjoy what it provides for you and leave it in better shape for the next person. Could the world be that simple?

When I got home I completed packing for my evening flight to Abu Dhabi. As I was about I leave the apartment the handle of my suitcase completely snapped off. The following is what transpired. I guess it’s true what they say: ‘it’s about the journey not the destination!’


Music: Radical Face, All is well (goodbye, goodbye)

It was a long flight but for the first in a long time I enjoyed a lengthy conversation with the person next to me. A German school teacher called Mr Wild. How does one get a name like that!? We chatted like old friends until I had to force myself into a sleep coma to be able to get up and go straight to work upon arrival, ergh! After 11 hours in the office I was done, and I’m now sitting eating room service ready to crash for a decent nights sleep.

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Reminising

I’m sitting here with tears streaming down my face having just watched the video of my arrival at the Northern Terminus of the Pacific Crest Trail. I’m not sure what made me do it. I was scrolling through the videos from that final treacherous day, finding it hard to believe that the person walking through the snow was actually me. Maybe it’s because I spoke to Fuller tonight and he mentioned that final thrilling day, and just how frightening those videos were. I guess I had to see them again for myself, which naturally brought back so many emotions and encouraged me to go the whole hog and watch the one I knew would bring a tear to my eye.

Speaking to Fuller brought back the reality of the trail. We both agreed that sometimes it’s hard to believe it really happened, that we did in fact walk from Mexico to Canada. We’ve both reached a point where it’s hard to talk about now. I think I’m in the process of filing away the memories and emotions, and each time I bring them up, I need to repack them neatly away again. Fuller came up with a good analogy about the trail being a little like an ex-lover. The experiences you share with the trail will never be known or understood by other people and it will forever hold a place in your heart.

I’ve obviously had too much solo time on my hands today because I was also reading some of the notes I wrote on my return to Sydney before I started this new blog. I definitely hit a few low points in those first few days readjusting to ‘home’ life again. I remember many people encouraging me to write about ‘life after the trail’. I think this is a topic that will continue to resurface for me and every other thru-hiker as the post-trail experience runs its course. Although the piece below sounds incredibly depressing, re-reading it made me feel it was worthwhile to share so that others feeling a bit of the same will realise you’re not alone:

I feel like I’m suffocating. I have an incredible knot in my stomach knowing that my life will never be the same. I will never again be preparing to embark on the most exciting adventure of my life. I’ve just lived it. From extraordinary to ordinary. I’m short of breath. The physical effects of this feeling of loss are breathtaking. The trail is no longer a looming mystery filled with longing and excitement. The story is complete, and I must find a new beginning without repeating the past. How can I top that? Haven’t I had enough excitement for one year? Shouldn’t I be satisfied and fall back into society’s groove like all the other players? I’m sliding down a plughole into the dark tunnel of my own thoughts. Flashbacks of a time that was haunt me. Even the bad feels good. I want it back, I wish it wasn’t over. I’m not ready to move on. The highs and lows that were magnified on the trail have followed me into this world. I want to crawl up and sleep, or escape into the wilderness. 

 

The roller coaster of emotions has certainly steadied from that day. I did struggle a lot getting back in the groove of this reality, but continuing to move forward and staying active has definitely been the key.

Escape to India

It’s been 3.5 years since I travelled to India to race an auto rickshaw 2000 kilometres across the country; but last night as part of my 2014 ‘let’s get things moving’ resolution, I finally put together a 5 minute snapshot of the experience after delving into old videos stored away on my external hard drive.

For anyone needing a little travel inspiration check out the video on my new 2010 – India video gallery page.

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